Sunday 11 March 2012

The Old Milano or Milano the Old?

For sure Milan can be considered a fashion and design capital (from an Italian point of view) but I think that we are quite an old city. I'm not talking about the fact that there is very little place for young workers (another sad story). I just think it's fairly peculiar the fact we do have two "Museum of the XIX° century"!
It goes without saying that I had appointment in the private one, the so called "Gallerie d'Italia" (Via Manzoni, 10)  but I wrongly went to the public one, the so called GAM, located in Via Palestro.

Once solved the misunderstanding, I reached the correct location for my guided visit to the private collection of Fondazione Cariplo and Intesa Sanpaolo, two Italian banks. If you have the occasion, please visit both the Museums, because they really deserve a little time to be spent there, they are both of value.

Today I'll talk about the collection of almost two hundreds masterpieces from Canova to Boccioni guested in "Gallerie d'Italia". Two tremendous old palaces, Palazzo Anguissola (XVIIIth century) and Palazzo Brentani (XIXth century), contain treasures that really impressed me. The palaces are both completely restored and they are great examples of the best Milanese Illuminism with gorgeous ceilings and amazing walls.
To be honest with myself, they are too much restored (by Michele de Lucchi) to my taste; Palazzo Anguissola is like a doll house, but this is not the moment to bring out my "conservative" nature [restoration is not the same of conservation].
The original style was respected, that's all.


Once entered in Via Manzoni 10, near Teatro alla Scala, you are first welcomed with a sculpture by Arnaldo Pomodoro in Palazzo Anguissola.
Then the tour brings you room after room across the Lombard XIXth century. Starting with bas-reliefs by Antonio Canova (dedicated to the bourgeoisie favorite virtues) the visit is full of sections dedicated to Lombardy and Milan. The most appreciable thing about this collection is not  the single quality of the pieces; all the pieces are qualitatively good, but it's more it's interesting to have a complete view on the city in that century. Also for those not being that keen on this age painting. You'll be able to see a Milan now half disappeared, with revolutions and riots wonderfully picked, or landscapes from the plan of Po river and poor workers.




Palazzo Brentani, connected to the first Palace by the courtyard, was differently restored. Here De Lucchi followed a different strategy (see also Scuderie del Quirinale, Roma) pointing at a simplified classicity, with minimal details but strong colours. As the previous Palace, this is equally worthy of a visit. The collection continues there ending with a few  bright and colored Boccioni's, premise of Futurism.



I wish I were able to take pictures, but I couldn't. Those inserted here are taken from the Institutions website, or from online reviews. 
This means: you really should go there in person, to fully appreciate.
I would suggest Palazzo Anguissola also for the children: show them how Milano was, with the Navigli an the old streets!



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